Excursions into the vineyards of Tuscany, Italy
Time to go! So, after siesta, we would get in the car to begin our excursions. It is truly a pleasure to drive in southern Tuscany, which looks like it comes out of a fairy tale. I didn’t know the tales of the region yet, but I learned that there were three main cities: Montalcino, Pienza and Montepulciano.
Soft light over the Tuscan landscape, with rolling vineyards and cypress-lined hills.
They were on the tops of hills and around them spread out the vineyards. They were the first vineyards we encountered as the colours of the land changed before our eyes. It was like crossing a golden-green carpet, only that we could not see it from above because, no sooner would we dive into one slope than we would ascend another.
My husband enjoyed it, but I used to get car sick and, fortunately, was kept busy observing the surroundings. I believe there are beautiful landscapes, more beautiful landscapes, and a third category – those that are incomparably unique. That’s where I placed the location we were looking at now, which in Italian is called le crete senesi, and which is located south of Siena.
Golden wheat fields stretch across the Tuscan countryside in soft beige tones.
Pienza stole my heart. There was order, beauty and symmetry. There was not a scooter, stroller or street fight to be seen! I liked its inhabitants because they were tolerant. When I asked a waiter for a glass of water, he brought it to me with no complaint. He wore his bow tie perfectly, and his shirt was neat and pressed, even at this heat.
There were only a few, small inns, everything else was ‘rooms to let’. The shops were full of the local culinary specialties – picci, spaghetti made by hand, a goat cheese known as pecorino di Pienza, intense in its flavour of herbs, a honey of chestnut, eucalyptus and orange blossom. All were displayed in small shops, tastefully decorated and lovingly organized.
A sweeping panorama of Pienza in Val d'Orcia, Tuscany.
When we left Pienza, I felt such heartache. My husband put some music on and, as the car effortlessly negotiated the hills, I thought I was dreaming. Sometimes, our path would cross with a vintage car, probably driven by an Englishman, while, at other times, we would encounter groups of motorcyclists who reminded me of modern knights.
We arrived in Montepulciano, the third city, through the vineyards. It didn’t have the warlike ferocity of Montalcino, nor the serene symmetry of Pienza. Wealth reigned here. Even the scenery lost some of its severity. The golden hills had turned to green and the cypresses no longer kept their isometric distance.
Montepulciano set amid the gentle Tuscan hills, surrounded by vineyards and olive groves.
It was an important crossroads that dominated all the valleys. I came to this realization when we sat on the tiny terrace of the Caffè Poliziano and I had to catch my breath when I saw how high up we were. The valley below looked like you were viewing it from an airplane, and a helicopter passed under the terrace at that exact moment. Only the swallows could reach us.
In my book A Year in Tuscany, I recount the moments I long cherished in Tuscany.
Related Articles
Il Borgo di Vescine: A Serene Tuscan Escape in the Heart of Chianti
A beautifully preserved medieval hamlet surrounded by vineyards and olive groves, where timeless Tuscan architecture, peaceful landscapes and refined hospitality embody the authentic spirit of the Chianti region.
Read Article
L'Andana Resort: A Refined Country Retreat in Tuscany’s Maremma
A secluded country estate surrounded by the unspoilt landscapes of Maremma, where refined living, exceptional cuisine and the natural elegance of the Tuscan countryside come together in a serene escape.
Read Article