The charming Il Borgo di Vescine in Chianti, Tuscany, Italy
Il Borgo di Vescine, Radda in Chianti, Tuscany
It remains one of the most captivating places I visited in Chianti during my recent journey through Tuscany. In my book A Year in Tuscany, I wrote about the extraordinary beauty of the Tuscan landscape — shaped patiently by human hands into a harmonious balance between nature and design. I have always believed that within the soul of the Tuscan farmer resides a quiet visionary who, much like the masters of the Renaissance, has fashioned the land itself into a living work of art.
When my friends and I arrived in mid-September at Il Borgo di Vescine, I was immediately enchanted by the history of this tiny hilltop village overlooking a tapestry of rolling valleys. Once a Longobard fortress, it evolved in the thirteenth century into a modest hamlet of peasants: a cluster of small stone houses descending gently along the hillside, surrounded by a panorama of rare beauty.
Sweeping views over the rolling hills of Chianti at Il Borgo di Vescine, Tuscany
Standing there, I could not help imagining the lives of those early inhabitants, whose days must have been devoted entirely to the land that sustained them. Centuries passed quietly until 1958, when sweeping changes to the Tuscan agrarian system prompted the villagers to abandon their homes and seek new lives in Florence, Siena and other nearby towns.
Traditional Tuscan simplicity and refined ambience at Il Borgo di Vescine, Tuscany
The Borgo fell silent and deserted. It might easily have succumbed to ruin had it not been rediscovered by a group of artists who, captivated by its beauty, purchased several houses and settled there. Yet maintaining the hamlet proved costly. Eventually it was sold again and, almost like the arrival of a benevolent fairy in a Tuscan tale, Lucia Paladin appeared. With care and sensitivity she restored the village, transforming it into a jewel-like relais where travellers from around the world can experience the authentic spirit of Tuscany.
Encircling the Borgo are vineyards and ancient olive groves set upon historic stone terraces, today protected by UNESCO. Yet the magic of this place lies not only in its immaculate gardens, perfumed with lavender and bright with flowers. It is also the warmth of its hospitality: the gracious welcome, the attentive staff and, above all, Stefano, the director, who orchestrates every detail with the finesse of a conductor guiding a symphony. Having read my book, he greeted me not merely as a guest but as a fellow admirer of Tuscany.
The charming, tranquil little piazza of Il Borgo di Vescine, Tuscany
At Stefano’s suggestion we ventured deeper into the countryside, discovering hidden corners of a region often regarded as one of the most beautiful landscapes in the world. One afternoon he encouraged us to explore the Chianti hills in a vintage Alfa Romeo Spider available to guests. It was an unforgettable experience. Winding roads led us through vineyards and forests to charming villages with ancient churches, quiet squares adorned with fountains and cafés, and castles rising above the valleys — reminders of the turbulent Middle Ages when they guarded the routes between cities. Along the way we paused in historic cellars to taste the celebrated Chianti Classico, the wine that has long defined the character of this region.
Chianti Classico wine from the cellars of Il Borgo di Vescine, Tuscany
When we were not exploring the countryside, we enjoyed leisurely picnics within the Borgo’s estate. The chef prepared baskets filled with the finest local produce, while a simple rug allowed us to choose the most enchanting spots from which to savour both our meal and the sweeping views.
The cuisine at the Borgo deserves special mention. Herbs and seasonal vegetables are gathered directly from the gardens to enrich traditional Tuscan recipes. In the evening, dinner is served on the terrace by candlelight, creating an atmosphere of quiet romance beneath the stars. Guests may also dine in the rustic charm of the Borgo’s small piazza, where farmers once gathered. The old communal oven now prepares traditional roasts and, above all, the queen of Tuscan cuisine: the magnificent Bistecca alla Fiorentina — a succulent T-bone steak from organically raised local cattle, grilled slowly over charcoal to perfection.
The elegant, panoramic terrace restaurant of Il Borgo di Vescine, Tuscany
Horse riding has always been a passion of mine, and wherever I travel I seize the chance to explore nature from the saddle. Stefano suggested beautiful routes through the pristine countryside surrounding the Borgo, revealing yet another dimension of its unspoiled landscape. Afterwards, relaxing beside the swimming pool beneath the golden Tuscan sun, with the rolling hills stretching endlessly before us, felt utterly sublime.
Relaxing by the panoramic swimming pool at Il Borgo di Vescine, Tuscany
Words scarcely suffice to capture the serenity of this hidden haven in the heart of Chianti. To the north lies Florence with its incomparable Renaissance treasures; to the south stands Siena, renowned for its striking Gothic architecture. Between these two historic cities, rich in art and culture, rests Il Borgo di Vescine — a place whose quiet magic will forever remain etched in my heart.
My long-cherished sojourn in Tuscany is recounted in my book: A Year in Tuscany