Ronda’s Feria Goyesca, Andalusia, Spain
Last September I was in Andalusia. I visited Ronda, the birthplace of modern bullfighting, with the elegant mansions of the local aristocracy, its wonderful iron-wrought balconies and patios with breathtaking views to the El Tajo gorge; more than 120-meters deep, that divides the city in two.
The spectacular view of the El Tajo gorge, Ronda, Andalusia
But let me talk about its most important citizen, the bullfighter Pedro Romero, the father of modern bullfighting. He lived in the late 18th century and he is a legend in Spain.
Why?
Because he considered the bullfight as an art. Until then, bullfight was considered a macho exploit to a bull’s slaughter. Pedro Romero founded the first bullfight school in Seville; he established innovations such as the use of the cape, muleta; and the kill of the bull face to face and not riding on a horse. He, himself, killed over 6.000 bulls without receiving a single goring!
Ronda’s famous Plaza de Toros is the oldest bullring in Spain, built in 1784. The bullfight here becomes a pure spectacle and is called Corrida Goyesca.
Plaza de Toros in Ronda, Andalusia
Why?
Well, because Goya painted bullfights in bright colours, and was a fan of Pedro Romero, to whom he designed his most stylish bullfighting costumes. I was taken inside the Plaza de Toros and, after I saw the chapel where bullfighters pray before they get into the ring, I was thrown into the magic of things I heard for the first time…
Matadors don’t enter Ronda’s venerated bullring by walking. They first parade riding through the town in the finest of period carriages, looking radiant in their Goyesca costumes. But they are not the only ones. The Damas Goyescas parade too riding in horse-drawn carriages wearing ornate dresses and mantillas. They are applauded by the crowd that shouts: “Guapa! Guapa!”
Damas Goyescas (2019), Ronda, Andalusia
Who are the Damas Goyescas?
Every year some of Ronda’s ladies are chosen to be the Damas Goyescas. They wear gowns seen in Goya’s paintings of bullfights and pageantry. Some art historians say that the painter’s portraits of the Duchess of Alba are the inspiration for the gowns; but today’s dresses, that cost a fortune, even though they respond to the 18th century’s fashion, are more splendid and beautiful.
The book ANDALUCIA, The Jewel of the Light is published in Greek. The electronic version will be published soon.
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Cruise theme “The Glories of Portugal and Spain” www.varietycruises.com