The charming Il Borgo di Vescine in Chianti, Tuscany, Italy
Il Borgo di Vescine, Radda in Chianti, Tuscany.
It's one of the most fascinating places I visited in Chianti on my recent trip to Tuscany. In my book, A Year in Tuscany, I described the beauty of the Tuscan landscape, made by human hands, in perfect symmetry and harmony. I believe that deeply embedded in the DNA of the Tuscan farmers is a visionary who, like the artists of the Renaissance, created their land as a painting.
Arriving with my friends at Il Borgo di Vescine, I was fascinated by the history of this tiny village, which dominates gorgeous valleys. Initially a Longobardic fortress, it became a peasants’ hamlet around the 13th century - a few small stone houses that descend the green hill with its magical panorama of the valleys around. The sight stimulated my imagination as to how the peasants lived, dedicated, of course, to their land. Centuries passed and in 1958, when the agrarian system changed in Tuscany, the inhabitants left their village to go to Florence, Siena, and to other small towns in the area, to integrate themselves into a different way of life.
Spectacular view to the hills of Chianti, Il Borgo di Vescine, Tuscany.
The Borgo was deserted and may have been in ruins but it was saved by some artists who, enchanted by its majestic sight, bought the houses there in order to settle down. Years passed, but the maintenance of the hamlet, as it turned out, was expensive. The solution was to sell it again and, as in fairy tales, one day the good fairy arrived, Lucia Paladin, who lovingly restored it and turned it into a gem-like relais, where guests from all over the world could come and feel at home.
Traditional Tuscan simplicity and refined ambiance in Il Borgo di Vescine, Tuscany.
The vineyards and the old olive groves that surround the Borgo sit on old stone-held terraces, and are now protected by Unesco. It’s not only the immaculate beauty of the gardens with the smell of lavender and the colors of the flowers, but its soul that creates an atmosphere full of warmth: the exquisite service, the welcome of the genteel personnel and, of course, Stefano, the Borgo’s director, who conducts every detail with his magic baton. Having read my book, he opened his arms and warmly welcomed me, not as a guest, but as a lover of Tuscany.
The little piazza of the Borgo di Vescine, Tuscany.
At Stefano's suggestion, I discovered even more hidden corners of the region, which is considered one of the most beautiful in the world. In fact, he advised us to tour the Chianti hills with the classic vintage convertible Alfa Romeo that is always available to his guests. It was indeed an unforgettable experience. Picturesque roads unfolded before our eyes taking us to beautiful villages with old churches, small squares with beautiful fountains and cafés, castles dominating the valleys, necessary during the turbulent Middle Ages to guard the passages or old cellars for wine-tasting of the Chianti Classico, as the region is one of the most famous in the world for wine production.
Chianti Classico wine from the cellars of Il Borgo di Vescine, Tuscany.
When we were not traversing those hills, we relaxed for picnics within the Borgo’s estate for which the chef had lovingly prepared for us a basket containing the superior local produce. A rug was supplied, and we selected the best spots to enjoy both our meal and the sweeping views.
On the subject of the Borgo’s delicious cuisine, I must not forget to mention that herbs and seasonal vegetables are picked directly from the gardens to enhance the taste of the traditional Tuscan recipes. These are served on the restaurant terrace under candlelight – a truly romantic ambiance. Another choice is to enjoy the rustic atmosphere of the Borgo’s little piazza where the old farmers used to gather. The once public oven nowadays serves the traditional roast to savour the “master queen of all Tuscan foods”: the Fiorentina steak – a delicious t-bone from an organically-fed local breed, braised slowly to perfection over a charcoal grill.
The terrace restaurant of Il Borgo di Vescine, Tuscany.
I love horse riding and wherever I travel, should the opportunity occur, I hop on the saddle to discover the unspoiled nature. Stefano was so helpful in suggesting where to ride and showing us the pristine land that surrounds the Borgo. And then, under the golden rays of the Tuscan sun, relaxing at the swimming pool with the gorgeous views of the hills, was a sublime sensation.
Relaxing at the swimming pool of Il Borgo di Vescine, Tuscany.
No words can describe the unique beauty of this serene spot in the heart of Chianti. Florence, with its Renaissance wonders, is a few kilometers to the North, while Siena, with its striking Gothic architecture, lies just a few kilometers to the South. Both historic cities, imbued with art and culture, embrace the Borgo di Vescine, a place that will remain memorable in my heart.
My long sojourn in Tuscany is described in the book: A Year in Tuscany