On the path of the Berbers Morocco

Τhe author in the Merzouga desert at sunset, southern Morocco.

The Berbers, or Imazighen—"the free people"—belong to one of humanity’s oldest civilisations, having lived in North Africa since at least 10,000 BC. When the Romans first encountered them, they termed them barbari—a word that evolved into “Berbers” to distinguish them from the Egyptians and Greeks who had established colonies along the North African coast. Herodotus referred to them simply as Libyans.

Over millennia, the Amazigh have weathered invasions, wars, and waves of colonisation. Yet this vast community — made up of tribes scattered across deserts and mountains — has managed to preserve its traditions and folklore.

During my travels in Morocco, I encountered them in the Atlas Mountains and the south, from the Sahara’s endless sands to the ochre-hued lanes of Marrakech. This region remains the heartland of their culture.

Renowned for their horsemanship, the Amazigh played a pivotal role in the early Islamic era. In the 7th century, after their conversion to Islam, Arab commanders enlisted them to lead the invasion of the Iberian Peninsula in 711. Their leader, Tariq ibn Ziyad, born in Tangier, gave his name to Gibraltar: Jabal Tariq or "Tariq’s Mountain," where he established his encampment beneath the iconic Rock.

Berber musicians in the Merzouga desert, southern Morocco.

The legacy of their breathtaking cavalry raids is still alive in Fantasia—the dramatic equestrian performances displayed at cultural and religious festivals, celebrating both the bond between rider and horse and the community’s deep-rooted traditions.

Tbourida, Morrocan folkloric “Fantasia” - Image Credit: Houssain Tork.

Several Moroccan dynasties—such as the Almoravids, Almohads, and Marinids—originated from the southern deserts and Atlas Mountains, leaving a lasting imprint on Morocco, Algeria, and Tunisia. Their influence reached as far as al-Andalus, where their Moorish art and architecture flourished between the 11th and 14th centuries. The striking similarity between the minaret of Marrakech’s Koutoubia Mosque and the Giralda in Seville is a testament to this shared legacy.

The Koutoubia Mosque (13th-century) in Marrakech - Image Credit: Sammy Six.

The stunning bell tower of the Cathedral of Seville, la Giralda, (13th-century).

Amazigh women, who have always held a central role within their families and communities, continue to preserve the culture through oral traditions of poetry, song, and storytelling. These also served to safeguard the Amazigh language, long denied official status even under Amazigh dynasties. Today, Tamazight is an official language of Morocco, alongside Arabic.

Amazigh women attending folkloric music at Ait Ben Haddou in southern Morocco - Image of Morocco Road Travel.

They are the artistic soul of their communities, particularly in the art of weaving. Women who work wool are highly respected, and it is said that one who weaves forty carpets in her lifetime is assured a place in Paradise. This art, which has existed for nearly 2,200 years, is believed to have originated in the farming communities of the Middle Atlas and Marrakech.

Amazigh women committed to weaving.

In ancient times, as nomads, Amazigh women created fabrics for mattresses and blankets from the wool of their sheep and goats. Their designs, made without patterns, are unique, each piece a personal expression of its maker. These woven treasures travel down from the Atlas to Marrakech, where they are auctioned in the lively souks.

The Atlas Mountains, a majestic and formidable landscape, remain the heart of the Amazigh. Their villages cling to steep hillsides, standing resilient against the harsh conditions. Here, they preserve their way of life and architectural traditions—kasbahs (fortified houses) and ksars (fortified villages) crafted from red mud-brick, stone, and wood, stand as monumental tributes to their enduring aesthetic.

Ait Ben Haddou, the fortified village along the old caravan route between the old Sahara route and Marrakech.

In Marrakech, I visited the Yves Saint Laurent Museum and the enchanting Majorelle Garden. Once the atelier of artist Jacques Majorelle, the former studio is now home to the Berber Museum, which opened in 2011. Its collection—assembled by Pierre Bergé and Yves Saint Laurent—features over six hundred objects, ranging from the Rif Mountains to the Sahara.

These objects highlight the richness of Amazigh heritage, honouring the women whose artistry has preserved it. Silver jewellery, textiles, carpets, and ceramics speak of a profound passion for Morocco, and while jewellery is crafted by male artisans, weaving remains a female-dominated art form. This creative legacy continues to inspire designers like Yves Saint Laurent and captivates all who encounter it.

Morocco became an endless source for Yves Saint Laurent. He would go there twice a year - December and June - to design his collections.

Travel with my Books in English