Horses, Flamenco, Sherry in Jerez de la Frontera, Andalusia, Spain
The combination between ocean and hinterland, organized by Variety Cruises was superb. From the sea breeze, we found ourselves rolling on golden hills in the outskirts of the city of Jerez de la Frontera, where the vineyards were undulating harmoniously. There weren’t many houses on the horizon, but large estates, the so-called fincas. 80 wineries were located in the area.
The Alcázar in Jerez de la Frontera, Andalusia
The city welcomed us in the early afternoon. Built inside the Arabic walls with the Alcázar - the residence of the Moorish Caliphs - its aspect has changed after the Reconquista. A little Renaissance-style, a bit of Baroque-style, but mostly with nice buildings and windows framed with the characteristic yellow-ochre colour, so typical of the whitewashed towns and villages of Andalusia (Pueblos Blancos), whose tint becomes more vivid under the intense rays of the sun and the blue sky.
The pulse of Jerez is horses, flamenco and Sherry.
The famous purebred Andalusian horses with their great beauty, nobility and grace arouse admiration all over the world. They are born grey, but very soon they become pure white. To see them gallop freely with their long, thick tail and mane is a unique sight. Jerez is the home of the Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art, a riding academy, one of the best in the world.
The Royal Equestrian School in Jerez de la Frontera, Andalusia
Saying this, I don’t know why Jerez kept dancing within me in many ways.
The lavishly poetic dance of the horses at the shows joins with the dance of flamenco that are both considered an art. Some of flamenco’s most important musicians call Jerez their native city and in the streets and back alleys, there are flamenco bars full of charm. Andalusians adore the ferias and there is no doubt that the Feria del Caballo (literally Horse Fair) in Spring is a beloved tradition in Jerez, where people are entertained from 12.00 until 4.00 a.m. drinking and dancing.
The Feria del Caballo in Jerez de la Frontera, Andalusia
Women wear colourful flamenco or gitana outfits and men tight, short jackets and sombreros. Fried fish is abundantly served and their favourite drink is the rebujito, a blending of dry Sherry with Sprite or Seven Up, which they consume with particular enthusiasm in the peňas (social clubs) and in the tabancos (old-style bars). After two or three drinks, Olé! they dance perfectly.
Our visit to the González Byass Winery was a revelation! An amazing microcosm within the town where the world-known Jerez’s Sherry is produced. The premises are of outstanding beauty and order. The firm exports to 116 countries. 40.000 barrels are used for the maturation of Sherry in a winery designed by Gustave Eiffel in 1862, where we were guided by a gracious hostess.
The author at the González Byass Winery in Jerez de la Frontera, Andalusia
“The word Sherry is an anglicisation of Jerez” she revealed to us. “When Francis Drake invaded Cádiz in 1587 and left with 3.000 barrels of Sherry, the British have been addicted to it. They continue to be our main international clients, but they prefer the so-called ‘cream’ Sherry which is sweeter, while we prefer the dry crystal-clear Fino, the Tio Pepe”.
“Tio Pepe?” I repeated raising my eyebrows.
“Yes, madam. Tio Pepe was the uncle of the founder of the company to whom he dedicated the Fino wine, and you can still see the barrels οf Tio Pepe Sherry, dating back to1835”, she said and showed us some old, dusty barrels. “And now ladies and gentlemen look at these other barrels” she went on moving us to another space, “they are signed by opera singers, Omar Sharif, Roger Moore, Lana Turner, Liz Taylor, all invited by the González family. And here look at the Spanish Royal Family, King Felipe VI, Queen Letizia, King Juan Carlos, Doňa Sophia… all having been exquisitely hosted here too.”
She looked so joyful and proud as she guided us from one space to the other. Fascinated, we were wandering through these spaces with the 40.000 barrels going in and out and crossing alleys, shaped in delightful pergolas.
A charming alley in the González Byass Winery in Jerez de la Frontera, Andalusia
“Oh, yes, madam, I am a very happy lady. I am from Jerez” she told me when we said goodbye, after helping me to pick the sweetest Sherry and a book about the González family’s history to remember this unique experience.
The book ANDALUCIA, The Jewel of the Light is published in Greek. The electronic version will be published soon.
Travel with my Books in English
Cruise theme: “The Glories of Portugal and Spain” www.varietycruises.com