A Magical door to Bali

The Tandjung Sari

 Tandjung Sari is an ageless beauty. More than fifty years since its founding, this charming little hotel on Sanur Beach, shaded by towering trees and quietly revealing treasures at every turn, remains serene, discreet and effortlessly elegant. Many describe it as Asia’s original boutique hotel.

The enchanting reception at Tandjung Sari, Bali

In the early 1970s there was neither electricity nor telephone service in Sanur; the roads were unpaved, and most people earned their living from farming and fishing. I arrived in Bali in the mid-1980s, tired and drowsy after a long journey. A driver was waiting at the airport to take us to Tandjung Sari. When we stepped out of his old-fashioned car — a rarity on the island at the time — I looked around for the reception.

A Tandjung Sari bungalow adorned with traditional Balinese décor

Before me were three steps leading up to a long, narrow table and three Balinese attendants, dressed in orange sarongs and yellow turbans, smiling in welcome. Framed by lush tropical vegetation, it was precisely the exotic simplicity I had hoped to find. Later, once I had adjusted to the style of this hotel — which in no way resembled a conventional hotel — I realised that everything had been arranged as though it had gently emerged from luxuriant nature itself.

The following morning, walking along the beach, I watched the fishermen drawing in their nets — a scene so timeless that I cannot help wondering whether it still endures today.

A bungalow pool, nestled amid lush vegetation at Tandjung Sari

In truth, Tandjung Sari did not set out to become the seminal boutique hotel of tropical Asia. It began in 1962 as a private retreat for its owner, Wija Wawo-Runtu, and his English wife, Judith, when they travelled from Jakarta to Bali on buying trips for their antiques business. A few additional bungalows were soon built to accommodate friends, then friends of friends. Almost imperceptibly, it evolved into a hotel; yet within a few years it had acquired an international reputation among discerning travellers as the place to stay.

Graceful repose at Tandjung Sari

For lovers of Bali, I warmly recommend the book Tandjung Sari – A Magical Door to Bali by Diane Darling. Written to mark the hotel’s fiftieth anniversary, it recounts the story of its growth, its challenges and triumphs, and the many guests who were captivated by its rare blend of simplicity and refinement.

Embark on a journey with my Books in English