My impressions of Monaco — BARBARA ATHANASSIADIS, Travel Writer

Monaco is the second smallest sovereign state in the world, surpassed only by the Vatican. Its territory was once far larger, but in 1860, the towns of Roquebrune and Menton were annexed by France, reducing the Principality’s area by a staggering 88%. What remained were the Rock, home to the Palace and the Old Town (Monaco-Ville); the Condamine, where today’s luxurious yachts are moored; the Spélugues hill, now Monte Carlo; and a narrow coastal strip extending to the Monte Carlo Beach Hotel, bordered by the elegant villa La Vigie.

Before 1860, these lands were blanketed with crops and extensive lemon groves — whose fruit reached as far as Tsarist Russia — and traversed only by dirt paths. Travel was by mule or boat. The secession of Roquebrune and Menton brought an abrupt end to the lucrative lemon trade, leaving the Principality in a precarious economic position.

It was in this context that the young Prince Charles III conceived a visionary plan: to transform Monaco into a premier tourist destination, akin to Cannes and Nice. He enlisted the services of François Blanc, a businessman who had already achieved success with the spa town casino in Homburg, in what is today Germany. Blanc’s first recommendation was practical yet transformative: extend the railway from Nice to Monaco. Without it, visitors — who until then arrived mainly by boat — would be few.

***Prince Charles III of Monaco, who reigned from 1856 to 1889***

In 1865, the Casino was constructed atop the Spélugues hill, previously covered in groves. By 1867, the legendary Hôtel de Paris had opened its doors, soon followed by villas and hotels built in the elegant Belle Époque style, reminiscent of Nice and Cannes. So impressed was Prince Charles III by the transformation of the hill that he bestowed upon it his own name: Monte Carlo.

***The Hôtel de Paris, opened in 1864, stands as a symbol of timeless elegance***

The arrival of the Casino marked the Principality’s economic revival. The lemon groves and financial woes were soon forgotten as Monte Carlo became the glittering jewel of Europe’s elite. So prosperous was the new era that Charles III exempted the Monegasque people from taxes. For the ruling family, however, the Casino’s entrance has always remained off-limits; only when attending performances at the Opera — an extension of the Casino facing the sea — do they enter through a separate, ornately adorned doorway.

***The Salle Garnier at the Monte Carlo Opera House — courtesy of the Monaco Press Centre***

The radiance of Monte Carlo, which endures to this day, inevitably overshadowed the Old Town on the Rock, where the Palace stands. Visiting Monaco-Ville, one feels transported into a world of serenity and classical beauty, with pink villas arranged in timeless elegance. The Monegasques live contentedly here, close to their Prince, seemingly untouched by the glittering spectacle across the hill.

On my most recent visit, I was captivated by the restoration of the external frescoes in the Court of Honour and the Gallery of Hercules at the Palace. These treasures of the Italian Renaissance, crafted by Genoese artists, shimmered in the morning sun.

***The author at the Prince’s Palace of Monaco in the early morning***

The House of Grimaldi, founded in 1160 in Genoa, became Monaco’s ruling family when Francesco Grimaldi, known as il Malizia (“the Malicious”), captured the Rock on the night of 8 January 1297. Disguised as a Franciscan friar, he gained entry to the castle and seized it alongside his cousin, Rainier I, Lord of Cagnes. This daring act is commemorated in the Monegasque coat of arms, featuring two armed friars, and in the red and white lozenges representing the heraldic colours of the House of Grimaldi — the oldest ruling dynasty in Europe

***The coats of arms of the House of Grimaldi***

The Old Town is especially enchanting on Palm Sunday morning, when I attended Mass at the Cathedral. Constructed in 1875 in the Roman-Byzantine style to replace the demolished 600-year-old Church of Saint Nicholas, it houses the tombs of Monaco’s Princes. Its magnificent high altar and episcopal throne, carved from white Carrara marble, speak of quiet grandeur.

Wandering through narrow streets adorned with flower-filled parterres and hanging gardens, I reached the Oceanographic Museum. Prince Albert II has continued the legacy of his ancestor, Albert I, a pioneer of oceanography, dedicating himself to the protection of marine biodiversity. Founded in 1910, the museum climbs the Rock itself, as seagulls wheel overhead.

***The Oceanographic Museum of Monaco***

In the aquarium, I delighted in the wonders of the Mediterranean Sea, my ancestral home, and explored the Tropical Seas to marvel at the vivid life of coral reefs. Certain corals, imbued with an extraordinary luminescence, created a magical, polychromatic spectacle alongside the tiny, brightly coloured fish.

***Vibrant hues in the depths of the sea at Monaco’s Aquarium***

Crossing to the other side of the Rock, I gazed upon the panoramic splendour of Monte Carlo. Its brilliance continues to attract wealthy visitors to its luxury residences. Meanwhile, on the Rock, the Monegasques preserve their traditions, living in harmony with their Princes. Their loyalty is most visible on National Day, 19 November, when citizens gather in Palace Square, waving flags as the princely family appears at the windows of the facade, which also houses the Hall of Mirrors and the portrait of Princess Grace.

***Portrait of Princess Grace of Monaco***

Monaco’s enduring independence is remarkable, especially in the context of European history, and the Principality has admirably resisted absorption by larger powers. One example of Monegasque diplomacy occurred in the early 1960s when Prince Rainier III confronted President Charles de Gaulle. With characteristic humour and sharp wit, Rainier remarked: "They want to drop an atomic bomb to kill a mosquito..."

Thanks to the vision and tenacity of its Princes, Monaco remains proudly perched upon its Rock, its red and white flag fluttering above the medieval towers of the Palace — a testament to centuries of resilience, elegance, and unbroken sovereignty.

Embark on a journey with my Books in English