A Passage from Amorgos, Greece
I found myself wondering how the mind works when you are stranded on an island with no idea how to leave it. As I watched the seagulls gliding effortlessly above the sea, I began piecing together an escape plan. The nearest island with an airport was Astypalea, and somehow I had to get there before nightfall.
The rugged and enchanting island of Amorgos in the Cyclades, Greece.
From Astypalea I could fly to Kos, then board the Blue Star Ferry as it made its way through the Dodecanese towards Patmos. Like the ancient islanders, I would travel from one island to the next, relying entirely on the sea.
I switched on my mobile phone and searched for friends in Astypalea.
To my delight, I found them.
"I'll be there tonight," I said. "You won't believe what made me leave the most beautiful cruise ship in the world."
"Stay as long as you like," they laughed. "You're not a seagull, flying from island to island."
Their warmth lifted my spirits immediately. For a moment it felt as though Poseidon had decided to smile upon me, sparing me the endless wanderings that had plagued Odysseus.
The only problem was getting there. The Port Authority confirmed my fears: there was no ferry to Astypalea that day. I looked around the harbour. A group of fishermen were enjoying their morning coffee, deep in conversation. I hesitated. How could I possibly ask complete strangers to take me across the sea?
A traditional fishing boat in Amorgos, Greece.
At that precise moment, as though Aeolus himself had intervened, a sudden gust of wind snatched my hat and sent it tumbling towards the water. One of the fishermen leapt up and caught it before it disappeared into the harbour. As he handed it back, my courage returned.
"Would it be possible to hire one of your caiques to take me to Astypalea?" I asked.
The men smiled.
"We're fishermen, lady — not a taxi service."
I gave them a rueful smile and turned away, wondering what on earth had possessed me to leave the comfort of the cruise ship anchored peacefully offshore.
A few minutes later, the fisherman who had rescued my hat walked over.
"When the wind eases," he said, "I'm going out to check my nets. If you don't mind travelling on a fishing boat, I'll take you to Astypalea."
For a second I simply stared at him.
He looked less like a fisherman and more like a guardian angel.
"Thank you," I replied. "I'd love to come."
He introduced himself as Captain Nikolas. Two hours later we left the harbour with his son, who helped him cast the nets, and their faithful dog, who quickly decided that I was an acceptable passenger.
The solitary and awe-inspiring Monastery of Our Holy Mother Hozoviotissa in Amorgos, Greece.
The fishing boat smelled exactly as fishing boats should. Salt, diesel, seaweed and fish blended into an unforgettable perfume that took some getting used to. I perched on a weathered wooden plank, polished smooth by years of salt and sun.
Captain Nikolas glanced at me with an amused smile.
"I didn't think you'd last this long," he said.
"I have to reach my destination," I replied over the wind.
The sea was still lively, and balancing on the boat proved harder than I had expected.
"Stand beside me," he called.
I did — and almost fell over.
He laughed.
"Spread your feet. Let your body move with the rhythm of the boat. Don't fight the sea; move with it."
Within minutes I understood exactly what he meant. Instead of resisting the motion, I surrendered to it. The boat no longer seemed unpredictable; it had its own quiet rhythm, and I had become part of it.
By then we were well out into the open sea. Amorgos stretched behind us, long and mountainous against the deep blue horizon. It was easy to understand why Luc Besson had chosen the island as the setting for Le Grand Bleu. Few places possess such raw beauty.
Boats have linked the Greek islands since time immemorial.
Ahead, the rugged outline of Astypalea slowly emerged from the haze.
As the evening light softened and the sea gradually calmed, I realised that the unexpected detours often become the journeys we remember most. I had left a luxury cruise ship behind, yet it was this humble fishing boat, guided by the kindness of strangers, that gave me one of the most unforgettable passages of my life.
Embark on a journey through the Greek islands with my book: GREECE, The Dance of the Seas
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