A sea voyage to the breathtaking Rock of Gibraltar
The Mediterranean Sea was extended before us with its calm waters, in shades of early morning grey. The most fascinating sea in the world with its amalgam of civilizations since ancient times. Galleons crossed it, and nowadays modern cargo ships were scattered en route to the ocean or coming from it. The white, elegant HARMONY V, would look like a Lilliputian yacht in the eyes of their crews, but we were not alone, because the yacht of an Arab Emir was also heading to the Rock, the majestic beauty of which we all gazed from the upper deck.
The Rock of Gibraltar
But Isabella, our gracious hostess, who cared more for our safety, landed us from the heights of our enchantment, saying:
“Watch out for the monkeys; don’t have bananas in your bag; don’t give them anything to eat because they will grab your hand and cut your finger.”
She so dramatically described them to us, the famous Barbary Apes of Gibraltar, that we were looking at them ecstatically. They jumped wherever, even over us, but following Isabella’s instructions, we stayed still, and they left almost immediately. Certainly, they are the kings of the Rock, but more certainly, we didn’t come to Gibraltar only for the monkeys.
The Barbary Apes of Gibraltar
A visit to St. Michael’s Cave which descends to the bottom of the Rock left us dumbfounded by the spectacular shapes taken by the stalactites and stalagmites. The music and the lights, projected in alternating colours, created a dramatic atmosphere as if Earth was conveying to us its message: “Here no human hand had touched me for billions of years.”
St. Michael's Caves
The road uphill the Rock was helical and narrow, but before reaching the summit, we went inside the Rock again, this time to discover how Earth let man intervene and create a spectacular project. These were the World War II Tunnels, an astonishing work made by the British soldiers and the locals who dug deep into the Rock to take refuge in the darkest days of the war.
Observing all these amazing achievements of nature and human hands, I had the impression that the Rock was empty inside. On the contrary, it stood solid and magnificent. When we reached its peak by cable car, the view was breathtaking!
A panoramic view of Gibraltar town from the Rock
Across was Africa; behind us was Spain; far away the Strait and the opening to the Atlantic Ocean; deep down the old town of Gibraltar enclosed in the Moorish walls; the modern buildings climbing uphill; the ultra-modern skyscrapers on reclaimed land on the sea; and finally the airport’s runway just next to the sea and cut off by Winston Churchill Avenue, which has to be closed every time a plane lands or departs. In front of this extraordinary spectacle, the monkeys comfortable and with disarming nonchalance live in their natural habitat.
After lunch and a light siesta on the yacht, I went to the old town. I was expecting to see a Georgian-period London, in smaller dimensions. Of course, there were traces of British heritage, but mostly there was a mélange of different architectural styles that reflected the diversity of the nationalities that settled on Gibraltar.
The Casemates Square in the Old Town
I looked up above the shops along Main street, and I was amazed to see Genoese-style shutters; Andalusian-style ceramic tile roofs and patios full of charm; Georgian timber sash windows; Portuguese-style tile facades; and other small buildings reminiscent of a town in the English countryside. I was surprised, though, not to hear clear English, but a language mixed with English and Maltese; nor did I meet English people, except for a few; but I saw many Spaniards and Moroccans, Indian and Jewish merchants. There were myriads of duty-free shops selling liquors of all kinds, jewellery for every taste and cosmetics brought from all over the world at tempting prices
The Convent Guard House standing opposite the Convent (the Governor’s residence)
When the sun was setting, I left the old town with a wonderful feeling imagining Christopher Columbus frequenting the bar, where I took my coffee. After, I crossed the Water Port Gate, dating back to the Moorish times. The aspect of the city changed dramatically: Ultra-modern skyscrapers, glass-wall international bank buildings, clean roads with palm trees, impeccable flowering roundabouts, spotless cars, and the Queensway Marina with its luxury apartments, restaurants, shops and bars next to where our yacht was anchored.
Queensway Quay - Image Credit: Peter Cumberlidge
That was the trendy side of the town, for which the English lady co-traveller, with whom I was taking an aperitif on the upper deck on board, said:
“When I came forty years ago, the Rock was completely different.”
“Meaning?” I asked her curiously.
“Well, there were no skyscrapers and the sea reached the Moorish walls. It was more romantic. Things are changing, don’t you agree?”
I didn’t know what to answer and I politely shook my head.
I understand that nostalgic feelings come into the surface when we travel, especially when we are on a cruise and contemplate such beautiful settings from the upper deck. But personally, when I want to express something solid, I write in the pages of my books: ”Solid like the Rock of Gibraltar”, having in my mind the Rock’s perpetual significance in the history of Europe; its past, its present and most welcomely its future.
The book ANDALUCIA, The Jewel of the Light is published in Greek. The electronic version will be published soon.
Travel with my Books in English
Cruise voyage by Variety Cruises: www.varietycruises.com